TY - JOUR
T1 - The motion of a rigid body impelled by sea-wave impact
AU - Cox, S. J.
AU - Cooker, M. J.
N1 - Funding Information:
The authors wish to thank the referees for their assistance. SJC acknowledges financial support from both the School of Mathematics at the University of East Anglia and the UK Engineering and Physical Sciences Research Council, award number 96000215.
Copyright:
Copyright 2004 Elsevier Science B.V., Amsterdam. All rights reserved.
PY - 1999/6
Y1 - 1999/6
N2 - A wave breaking against a sea wall causes high pressure gradients to act along the sea bed, pushing objects away from the wall. This situation is modelled using pressure impulse theory to show that, for a large object near a sea wall, the impulsive force due to the wave will move the object. This force can be found, given knowledge of the added mass and volume of an object. In particular, if the wall is thought of as a plane, gently sloping beach, then this theory may explain how shingle beaches are graded according to the size of the shingle, with larger boulders being moved farthest by the impact of a wave. In order to obtain estimates for the distances moved up, or down, the beach, a single boulder is treated as a spherical body which is free to move.
AB - A wave breaking against a sea wall causes high pressure gradients to act along the sea bed, pushing objects away from the wall. This situation is modelled using pressure impulse theory to show that, for a large object near a sea wall, the impulsive force due to the wave will move the object. This force can be found, given knowledge of the added mass and volume of an object. In particular, if the wall is thought of as a plane, gently sloping beach, then this theory may explain how shingle beaches are graded according to the size of the shingle, with larger boulders being moved farthest by the impact of a wave. In order to obtain estimates for the distances moved up, or down, the beach, a single boulder is treated as a spherical body which is free to move.
KW - Beach material sorting
KW - Breaking waves
KW - Impulsive motion
KW - Wave impact pressures
UR - http://www.scopus.com/inward/record.url?scp=0032883220&partnerID=8YFLogxK
U2 - 10.1016/S0141-1187(99)00005-X
DO - 10.1016/S0141-1187(99)00005-X
M3 - Article
AN - SCOPUS:0032883220
SN - 0141-1187
VL - 21
SP - 113
EP - 125
JO - Applied Ocean Research
JF - Applied Ocean Research
IS - 3
ER -