The motion of a rigid body impelled by sea-wave impact

S. J. Cox; M. J. Cooker

doi:10.1016/S0141-1187(99)00005-X

The motion of a rigid body impelled by sea-wave impact

S. J. Cox^*
, M. J. Cooker

^*Corresponding author for this work

University of East Anglia

Research output: Contribution to journal › Article › peer-review

12 Citations (Scopus)

Abstract

A wave breaking against a sea wall causes high pressure gradients to act along the sea bed, pushing objects away from the wall. This situation is modelled using pressure impulse theory to show that, for a large object near a sea wall, the impulsive force due to the wave will move the object. This force can be found, given knowledge of the added mass and volume of an object. In particular, if the wall is thought of as a plane, gently sloping beach, then this theory may explain how shingle beaches are graded according to the size of the shingle, with larger boulders being moved farthest by the impact of a wave. In order to obtain estimates for the distances moved up, or down, the beach, a single boulder is treated as a spherical body which is free to move.

Original language	English
Pages (from-to)	113-125
Number of pages	13
Journal	Applied Ocean Research
Volume	21
Issue number	3
DOIs	https://doi.org/10.1016/S0141-1187(99)00005-X
Publication status	Published - Jun 1999
Externally published	Yes

Keywords

Beach material sorting
Breaking waves
Impulsive motion
Wave impact pressures

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10.1016/S0141-1187(99)00005-X

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title = "The motion of a rigid body impelled by sea-wave impact",

abstract = "A wave breaking against a sea wall causes high pressure gradients to act along the sea bed, pushing objects away from the wall. This situation is modelled using pressure impulse theory to show that, for a large object near a sea wall, the impulsive force due to the wave will move the object. This force can be found, given knowledge of the added mass and volume of an object. In particular, if the wall is thought of as a plane, gently sloping beach, then this theory may explain how shingle beaches are graded according to the size of the shingle, with larger boulders being moved farthest by the impact of a wave. In order to obtain estimates for the distances moved up, or down, the beach, a single boulder is treated as a spherical body which is free to move.",

keywords = "Beach material sorting, Breaking waves, Impulsive motion, Wave impact pressures",

author = "Cox, \{S. J.\} and Cooker, \{M. J.\}",

note = "Funding Information: The authors wish to thank the referees for their assistance. SJC acknowledges financial support from both the School of Mathematics at the University of East Anglia and the UK Engineering and Physical Sciences Research Council, award number 96000215. Copyright: Copyright 2004 Elsevier Science B.V., Amsterdam. All rights reserved.",

year = "1999",

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doi = "10.1016/S0141-1187(99)00005-X",

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journal = "Applied Ocean Research",

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AU - Cox, S. J.

AU - Cooker, M. J.

N1 - Funding Information: The authors wish to thank the referees for their assistance. SJC acknowledges financial support from both the School of Mathematics at the University of East Anglia and the UK Engineering and Physical Sciences Research Council, award number 96000215. Copyright: Copyright 2004 Elsevier Science B.V., Amsterdam. All rights reserved.

PY - 1999/6

Y1 - 1999/6

N2 - A wave breaking against a sea wall causes high pressure gradients to act along the sea bed, pushing objects away from the wall. This situation is modelled using pressure impulse theory to show that, for a large object near a sea wall, the impulsive force due to the wave will move the object. This force can be found, given knowledge of the added mass and volume of an object. In particular, if the wall is thought of as a plane, gently sloping beach, then this theory may explain how shingle beaches are graded according to the size of the shingle, with larger boulders being moved farthest by the impact of a wave. In order to obtain estimates for the distances moved up, or down, the beach, a single boulder is treated as a spherical body which is free to move.

AB - A wave breaking against a sea wall causes high pressure gradients to act along the sea bed, pushing objects away from the wall. This situation is modelled using pressure impulse theory to show that, for a large object near a sea wall, the impulsive force due to the wave will move the object. This force can be found, given knowledge of the added mass and volume of an object. In particular, if the wall is thought of as a plane, gently sloping beach, then this theory may explain how shingle beaches are graded according to the size of the shingle, with larger boulders being moved farthest by the impact of a wave. In order to obtain estimates for the distances moved up, or down, the beach, a single boulder is treated as a spherical body which is free to move.

KW - Beach material sorting

KW - Breaking waves

KW - Impulsive motion

KW - Wave impact pressures

UR - https://www.scopus.com/pages/publications/0032883220

U2 - 10.1016/S0141-1187(99)00005-X

DO - 10.1016/S0141-1187(99)00005-X

M3 - Article

AN - SCOPUS:0032883220

SN - 0141-1187

VL - 21

SP - 113

EP - 125

JO - Applied Ocean Research

JF - Applied Ocean Research

IS - 3

ER -

The motion of a rigid body impelled by sea-wave impact

Abstract

Keywords

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